#Hood Seafurl 5 Professional Engineer To

800 and the 900 Series ,the new SL has Hood Yacht Systems' 5-year limited warranty.Created Date: 7:21:29 AM. Standing rigging, Hood Seafurl genoa furler, cutter-stay, 5 sails: main / furling genoa I / cutter staysail / try-sail / spinnaker, cover for mainsail, slabreefing for mainsail, Proctor mechanical boomvang, Barbarossa mechanical backstay adjuster, 2 Advertisement Sea Furl LD Reefingl Furling Systems l Advertisement. Sloop-cutter-rigged, Proctor double spreader mast, s.s.

Offshore Sailing School - Easy Furling of Jib-Genoa - Duration: 2:31. Rbx the rbx files zip download. Hood Roller Furling 2 Robert Leffingwell. May be purchased separately from your Hood Yacht Systems.Hood Seafurl 5 Parts Hood 707 Furler Installation Manual Hood Seafurl 5 Parts.

I released the halyard tension, lowered the sail a few inches, and watched 48 ball bearings merrily dribble onto the trampoline, filter through the netting, and plop into the harbor. We were 10 days into a 2 1/2 week cruise around the Delmarva. A simple morning task to pass the time in a sailorly way. Hood Furler Installation Manual (6,446 Kb) uploaded by Apex Hood Seafurl LD Manual.7-1-2016 On a pleasant windless day at a dock 150 miles from home, I decided to partly lower our furling genoa so that I could put a few stitches and necessary patches on the sacrificial leech cover.

The weather forecast called for strong winds on the nose the first day, followed by spinnaker reaching conditions for the next two days. Although I could no longer furl the sail, I could still use the luff extrusion as a foil, so we lowered the large geona and planned on using the much smaller self-tacking jib for the 3-day trip home. When I went to re-hoist the sail the the foil was lifted by normal friction in the groove, the top half of the furler was lifted, and everything fell apart. My genoa is a little to long on the luff but still, it sets very well with no halyard tention in fact, some wieght rests on the tack, just a little, and this held the upper race in position. The bearings in this furler are half-and-half stainless and Torlon, and it seems the Torlon bearings had worn down to where the stainless bearings would ride up over them.Eventually, the wedging force pushed the lower circlip out of its groove and the lower race fell apart, unnoticed. It would roll fairly easily for a bit, then seize, and after a good tug, roll easily again.

My unit had the 9/64 balls that were badly worn in both the drive and the Halyard swivel. I drilled a small drain in the stainless basket.Anonymous Drew, I am trying to rebuild my Hood 800 furler. That is really the only place water can enter. To reduce the intrusion of salt spray I fitted a large (3'x 1/8-inch thick, fitting just inside the tack fitting) polyethylene washer to the top of the stack, just above the top circlip. The set screw nubs are enough to make it secure.In my case, since I elected to get rid of the failure-prone mix of Torlon and stainless, I am using grease. If you cannot a proper knot through the hole (sometimes the drum is stuck to the core due to corrosion) the line can be secured with a clove hitch.

And the first place product is Green Grease, even better than Lanicote and winch grease. I am into the 3rd month of a grease wash-out study for Practical Sailor Magazine, testing everything from the most expensive winch grease to some very common products. As posted, I used 9/64' SS balls 4 years ago and it is still smooth as glass.I packed it full with a VERY washout resistant grease (Green Grease by Omni Lubricants, available through Advance Autoparts and NAPA) and added a plastic disk at the top to reduce water flow (see above). I suspect they went to every-other to avoid the need for stainless. First, I bet they changed some other dimensions when they changed to 1/4' balls.

It has two opposing set screws and I can't find a similar part online?Also I can't get the drum to drop, I'm assuming it's just a corrosion issue holding it up, but maybe you know more? My email is I can send photos.Brian Cape May. Wondering if you can help? A plastic piece fell out of the bottom of my mid 90's hood furler while trying to replace a broken line, it's about the size of a hockey puck and I assume it's a spacer between the larger tube under the drum and the forestay. Came across this while searching for parts. It has two opposing set screws and I can't find a similar part online?Also I can't get the drum to drop, I'm assuming it's just a corrosion issue holding it up, but maybe you know more? My email is I can send photos.Brian Cape May. Came across this while searching for parts.Wondering if you can help? A plastic piece fell out of the bottom of my mid 90's hood furler while trying to replace a broken line, it's about the size of a hockey puck and I assume it's a spacer between the larger tube under the drum and the forestay.

Thinking that was likely the problem, I figured I'd order one or make one but reassemble it until I could add the ring. I discovered that the centering ring was missing. This allowed me to slide the whole assembly up onto the extrusion. I disconnected the drum assembly from the bottom shackle and removed the tack sockets above it. I couldn't figure it out because the bearings on the drum and slide seemed to work fine with no noticeable friction.So I decided that perhaps my forestay tension should be checked.

I figure a new furler with a rigid tube extrusion (not CDI type) will cost me about $2K to be installed by the yard. So now I need parts but can't find them. Also the screw stripped out of the forward tack socket so I figured I should just replace that too. No chance of finding them especially since they are non-magnetic.So now I need more parts. They popped out and bounced off of my deck into 7' of water with a soft muddy bottom. That's when the rivets broke holding the top bearings.

Hood Seafurl 5 Professional Engineer To

I like to think of it as a challenge for the imaginationвЂ”itвЂ™s more fun that way. AccessoriesTransitioning from professional engineer to writer has transformed my habit of living efficiently into a passion for spreading funds thin. As much as I love sailing, putting my daughter through college and funding my 401K are more important.

As a regular contributor to sailing magazines including Practical Sailor and Good Old Boat (over 150 articles), it provides a place to try out ideas and publish the overflow. My magnum opus?Vienna, VA, United States This is my place to share my enthusiasm for the Chesapeake Bay, Delmarva Peninsula, PDQ And Corsair F-24 specific minutia, and sailing in general. Although I've written on many topics, my wife assures me this is the one I know best. As a result IвЂ™ve become a fair hand most crafts, never get stuck in the field with something I canвЂ™t fix, and I've learned to spread money thin, without compromising speed, reliability, or performance. Hood Seafurl 5I've also spent 35 years as a chemical engineer, and my wife thinks I live in my basement shop. IвЂ™ve spent 30 years learning how to maintain, fix, and upgrade.

My end of the pier is always festooned with test rigs and warning signs. After 15 years of kayaking, 35 years of sailing, 35 years of rock and ice climbing, and 40 years as a chemical engineer, I still have much to learn and my life is still one giant science project. If I need to get long winded or philosophical, itвЂ™s my space to do so.

My sailmaker said it canbe done without going up the mast but my friend and the manual dont seem to agree on that.Let me no if you cant get it might be a little slow as I am back and forth but I do have It.

Hood Seafurl 5 Manual